Chromaline Super PHAT® Capillary Film — 3D & High-Density Screen Printing

Start with a properly degreased, fully dry screen on a fresh mesh. Yellow mesh is strongly preferred for Super PHAT — it absorbs scattered UV light during exposure, which is critical for thick stencil resolution. Standard white mesh works but expect softer edges.

Open Super PHAT only under yellow safelight or low-wattage tungsten bulbs. AVOID daylight, fluorescent lamps, quartz/halogen, or cool-white LEDs — any of these will pre-expose the film and ruin the stencil before you start. Cut the film about 1″ larger than your image area.

Spray or wipe the mesh side (the side the squeegee won’t touch during printing) with clean filtered water. The mesh should be uniformly wet — not dripping, not dry. This is the capillary action that bonds the film to the threads.

With the printed Mylar carrier sheet UP (toward you) and the dry film side DOWN (toward the wet mesh), lay the film flat on the mesh. Smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles by hand before squeegeeing — once water wets the film, you can’t move it.

Using a soft squeegee or window-squeegee, work from the center of the screen outward to push water and air bubbles to the edges. Light pressure — you’re not trying to drive the film into the mesh, you’re letting the capillary action pull it in. Several light passes beat one heavy pass.

For small bubbles that remain in the image area, wet your finger and gently touch the bubble. The capillary action will pull the film tight to the mesh, eliminating the bubble. This is normal — don’t panic at a few residual bubbles.

Lay the screen flat to dry — film side up. Drying position doesn’t really matter with capillary film (unlike liquid emulsion), but horizontal dry is most foolproof. Allow several hours minimum; thick film (400µm+) may need overnight.

Once dry, peel the Mylar carrier sheet off the film. Then coat the PRINT SIDE of the screen with one thin coat of liquid emulsion — ChromaBlue for plastisol inks, UDC-ACE for water-based or discharge inks. This bonds the film to the threads and seals the edges. Dry again.

Use LED or metal halide exposure (fluorescent units don’t have enough UV power for thick film). Chromaline’s reference: 5KW unit at 40″ / 1 meter from frame using yellow mesh. Expose, wash out gently with low-pressure water, inspect for clean edges and full image.

For total stencil deposits over 200µm where edge sharpness matters: use TWO screens at 200µm each instead of one screen at 400µm. Print the first, flash cure, then print the second slightly higher. Edge definition stays crisp; total ink deposit hits 400µm+. Chromaline’s matchstick demo uses this exact technique.

Yellow mesh absorbs scattered UV during exposure, which is essential for thick stencils. White mesh produces softer edges and undercutting on thick film. The extra cost of yellow mesh is recovered the first time you save a screen from re-burning.

Standard fluorescent exposure units don’t produce enough UV intensity to fully expose thick capillary film. Symptoms of underexposure: soft edges, image washes out, stencil dissolves during printing. If you have a fluorescent exposure unit, borrow time on a friend’s LED or metal halide unit before buying Super PHAT in bulk.

ChromaBlue for plastisol inks (oil-based). UDC-ACE for water-based, discharge, or solvent-based inks. Mixing this up causes stencil breakdown mid-run — the wrong emulsion dissolves in the wrong ink. Check your ink type before ordering bonding emulsion.

Super PHAT sheets curl and crease if stored standing or hanging. Lay them flat in a closed container in a cool, dry, dark area. A simple flat cardboard pizza-style box works well. Creased film produces creased stencils — non-recoverable.

Once you’ve applied Super PHAT and the bonding emulsion to a screen, that coated screen lasts MAXIMUM one month in cool, dry, completely dark storage. Beyond that, the unexposed photopolymer starts breaking down. Don’t pre-coat dozens of screens hoping to use them next quarter.

Super PHAT has improved humidity resistance vs liquid emulsion — but it’s not waterproof. Drying screens in a humid (>70% RH) environment slows drying and risks moisture-related bond failure. Use a dehumidifier or AC in your drying cabinet during summer months.

The 8″×10″ 2-sheet trial pack is the right way to dial in your shop’s specific exposure time, bonding emulsion, and ink combo before buying a 10-sheet production pack. Most shops need 1-3 trial screens to nail down their workflow with a new capillary film.

• Metal Halide units (5KW typical) — Chromaline’s reference exposure source
• LED exposure units (UV LED arrays) — modern shop standard
• High-power UV mercury vapor lamps
• Used with yellow mesh for best edge definition

• Fluorescent / BLB exposure units — insufficient UV intensity
• Sunlight exposure — uneven, unpredictable
• Standard household UV lamps — not enough power
• Black light reptile bulbs — hobbyist range only, won’t penetrate thick film

• Shelf life: 24 months at room temperature
• Store in original packaging, sealed
• Cool, dry, dark area (closet, drawer)
• Sheets MUST be stored flat — no folding/standing
• Avoid heat sources and direct sunlight

• Maximum 1 month coated & unexposed
• Store in clean, cool, dry, COMPLETELY DARK area
• Light-tight cabinet or wrapped in black plastic
• Beyond 1 month, photopolymer breaks down
• Don’t pre-coat large batches “for later”

• Yellow safelight or low-wattage tungsten only
• NO daylight, fluorescent, quartz/halogen, cool-white
• Clean, dry hands (or gloves)
• Avoid creasing or wrinkling
• Cut on clean, flat surface

• Capillary film is a photopolymer — generally low hazard
• Avoid skin contact with bonding emulsion (separate product)
• Wash hands after handling
• Use eye protection during exposure
• Review the bonding emulsion’s SDS separately

Chromaline’s standard photopolymer emulsion for plastisol screen printing. Use with Super PHAT when running standard plastisol, high-density plastisol, puff, gel, or foil base inks.

Browse Chromaline emulsions →

Diazo dual-cure emulsion for water-based, discharge, and solvent inks. Required when bonding Super PHAT for water-based screen printing — plastisol emulsions will dissolve in water-based ink.

View Hydro-X Blue → · Hydro-X Red →